She proved to be a nowise awful personage, but a homely, neat, kindly,
intelligent, and middle-aged body. She seemed to be all alone in this
great old castle, and at once consented to show us about,--being, no
doubt, glad to see any Christian visitors. The castle is now the
property of Sir R. Tufton; but the present family do not make it their
permanent residence, and have only occasionally visited it. Indeed, it
could not well be made an eligible or comfortable residence, according to
modern ideas; the rooms occupying the several stories of large round
towers, and looking gloomy and sombre, if not dreary,--not the less so
for what has been done to modernize them; for instance, modern
paper-hangings, and, in some of the rooms, marble fireplaces. They need
a great deal more light and higher ceilings; and I rather imagine that
the warm, rich effect of glowing tapestry is essential to keep one's
spirit cheerful in these ancient rooms. Modern paper-hangings are too
superficial and wishy-washy for the purpose. Tapestry, it is true, there
is now, completely covering the walls of several of the rooms, but all
faded into ghastliness; nor could some of it have been otherwise than
ghastly, even in its newness, for it represented persons suffering
various kinds of torture, with crowds of monks and nuns looking on.
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