"
But to return. We started for St. Thegonnec. It was a longish drive; the
road undulated a good deal, and the horse seemed to think that whether
going up hill or down a funereal pace was the correct thing. It took us
half our time to rouse our sleepy driver to a sense of his duty. At last
we tried a severe threat. "If you are not back again by table d'hote
time, you shall have no pourboire," we said, in solemn and determined
tones. The effect was excellent. We had no more trouble, but the
unfortunate horse had a great deal of whip.
There was very little to notice in the country we passed through. The
most conspicuous objects were the large stone crucifixes erected here
and there by the roadside or where two roads met: ancient and beautiful;
and throwing, as we have remarked, a religious tone and atmosphere over
the country. It was wonderfully picturesque to see, as we occasionally
did, a Brittany peasant kneeling at the foot of one of these old
crosses, the pure white Brittany cap standing out conspicuously against
the dark grey stone: a figure wrapped in devotion, apparently lost to
the sense of all outward things.
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