Along the Indus valley the
servants of Englishmen beat the Tibetans, in the Shayok and Nubra
valleys the Yarkand traders beat and cheat them, and the women are
shy with strangers, but at Hundar they were frank and friendly with
me, saying, as many others had said, 'We will trust any one who comes
with the missionary.'
Gergan's home was typical of the dwellings of the richer cultivators
and landholders. It was a large, rambling, three-storeyed house, the
lower part of stone, the upper of huge sun-dried bricks. It was
adorned with projecting windows and brown wooden balconies. Fuel--
the dried exereta of animals--is too scarce to be used for any but
cooking purposes, and on these balconies in the severe cold of winter
the people sit to imbibe the warm sunshine. The rooms were large,
ceiled with peeled poplar rods, and floored with split white pebbles
set in clay. There was a temple on the roof, and in it, on a
platform, were life-size images of Buddha, seated in eternal calm,
with his downcast eyes and mild Hindu face, the thousand-armed Chan-
ra-zigs (the great Mercy), Jam-pal-yangs (the Wisdom), and Chag-na-
dorje (the Justice).
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