Sorcery is largely used in the
treatment of the sick. The books which instruct in the black art are
known as 'black books.' Those which treat of medicine are termed
'blue books.' Medical knowledge is handed down from father to son.
The doctors know the virtues of in any of the plants of the country,
quantities of which they mix up together while reciting magical
formulas.
I was heartily sorry to leave Leh, with its dazzling skies and
abounding colour and movement, its stirring topics of talk, and the
culture and exceeding kindness of the Moravian missionaries.
Helpfulness was the rule. Gergan came over the Kharzong glacier on
purpose to bring me a prayer-wheel; Lob-sang and Tse-ring-don-drub,
the hospital assistants, made me a tent carpet of yak's hair cloth,
singing as they sewed; and Joldan helped to secure transport for the
twenty-two days' journey to Kylang. Leh has few of what Europeans
regard as travelling necessaries. The brick tea which I purchased
from a Lhassa trader was disgusting. I afterwards understood that
blood is used in making up the blocks. The flour was gritty, and a
leg of mutton turned out to be a limb of a goat of much experience.
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